Headset Removal and Replacement
Mon, July 6, 2020 
The removal and replacement of the headset cups and bearings in a vintage steel frame is a simple task, and you can do this with a few inexpensive items picked up from your local hardware store.
To remove the bearing cups from the frame, purchase a piece of copper tube. I found a ¾ inch repair coupling that was ¾ inch diameter inside and slightly under and inch outside. These come in various lengths. 12 inch long works fine for most frames and the ends are already machined nice and square.
Cut four slots down the length of the tube about 4 inches long, using a hacksaw, and bend the four pieces outwards as shown in the picture above. These squeeze in to insert through the headset cup and then spring out again inside the head tube. With a hammer or mallet, the cups can be safely knocked out of the frame.
This works in exactly the same way as the professional Campagnolo tool that costs a great deal more. To remove the lower ring from the fork, turn the fork upside down resting the threaded end on a wooden block, and drive the ring off with a hammer and flat punch.
It is necessary to tap first one side of the ring, then the other to get it to come off straight. The bottom ring is hardened steel so the flat punch will not damage it in any way.
To press the cups in the frame, buy a 5/8 dia. nut, bolt, and several large flat washers. Measure the head tube length to estimate the length of bolt needed. Press the top cup in first, which again is usually hardened steel, with the bolt facing up and washers and the nut on top. Tightening the nut on the bolt squeezes the cup into the frame.
Then remove the nut and bolt, reversed it and press the lower cup in. (See picture, left.) If the bottom cup is light alloy, place the lower steel fork ring inside, upside down. This brings it flush with the outside edges of the cup so the washers are pressing on the inner hardened steel bearing surfaces, rather than the soft alloy outer edge of the cup.
Don’t press the cups in with the ball bearings in place, or you may damage the balls or the bearing surfaces.
Finally, to drive the lower ring on to the fork, purchase a short piece of one inch black iron pipe. This should be slightly bigger than an inch inside, check that is so it slides easily over the one-inch steering column.
Holding the fork in one hand, drive the bearing ring onto the crown race, sliding the piece of iron pipe up and down, using it as a hammer. (See picture, right.)
Once again, because the lower ring is hardened steel the softer iron pipe will do no damage. The piece of iron pipe does not have to be threaded as shown here. It just happened to come that way, as long as it is the length and weight needed to do the job.
Final note, use a smear of grease on the inside of the head tube. It will help the cups slide in and prevent corrosion in the future.
To Share click "Share Article" below
Reader Comments (5)
Great info!
This is exactly what I have done for years.
White Industries, their hub service sheet, list what socket sizes you
need to replace and adjust the bearings. Part of the reason I bought
them, was their 'no special tools' service guide.
My cup removal tool is made from a piece of frame tube that was cut from a crashed frame. It is split and flared with a small ring of the same tube shoved up inside to keep the end spread.
I have used a bench vise (or even a large C-clamp) to push cups back in, though a threaded rod works better.
WRT the crown race. If you are dealing with Campagnolo Super Record HS, be careful of the crown race. they are fragile and will split if the OD of the fork seat is too big. There should not be more than .02" difference between the OD of the fork seat and the ID of the crown race.
They are notorious for breaking and are hard as hens teeth to find. Ask me how I know. My 1983 Colnago Superissimo came with a broken one. I suspect there was too much paint on the fork seat. The break was rotated to the rear and i don't feel any "indexing."
A former TREK frame builder stated they had a drawer full of new and broken crown races. I don't think you can use a NR crown race because it has different dimensions and it would impact stack height.
I may be in need of calibration on this information but that is what I have experienced.
Love DIY tools, those above as well as RD hanger tool and Sheldon Browns DS BB cup removal method.
That was super helpful for me. I have avoided doing work around the headset because of a lack of tools, but it seems like I don't need any specialized tools for this.
Thank you, Dave!